Luoyang Departure: Longmen Grottoes, White Horse Temple, Luoyang Museum and Erlitou, 3 Days 2 Nights

Into Longmen at eight thirty. Start on the west bank, where niches crowd the cliff, some no bigger than a palm, others tall enough to stand inside. The Fengxian terrace is the widest opening, the Vairocana Buddha seated at the centre with disciples, bodhisattvas and guardian kings flanking him, the folds of stone drapery still legible. Lunch by the Yi river. Cross the bridge in the afternoon and look back: the west cliff reads like a honeycomb. At dusk, the old town quarter, lamps on, the Wenfeng pagoda throwing its shadow into the water.

Attraction introduction: The Longmen Grottoes occupy both banks of the Yi river south of Luoyang, begun around the Northern Wei move of the capital and continued through the Tang, leaving 2,345 niches and more than a hundred thousand figures. The Vairocana Buddha of Fengxian terrace stands 17.14 metres tall and is the benchmark of Tang cave sculpture.

Tips: The west bank is a long stair walk of about two hours, so wear shoes that stay on your feet. Guests generally find the west side better lit in the morning and the east bank best for looking back in late afternoon. In practice, both banks are done in one day so nobody crosses the river twice.

Morning at White Horse Temple. The gate is modest, and beyond it a straight path runs past hall after hall under very old cypresses. To the east stands the Qiyun pagoda, square in plan, eaves stepping in with a clean line. Back into the city for lunch. The afternoon goes to Luoyang Museum: the ground floor tells the Heluo civilisation in sequence, the upper floor holds the Tang three-colour figures, where a black-glazed horse stands under the light with its glaze still deep, and in the next case a Wei white jade cup thin enough to pass light.

Attraction introduction: White Horse Temple lies east of the city and was founded in 68 AD, the first monastery built by the Chinese state after Buddhism arrived, hence the name First Ancient Temple. Its Qiyun pagoda is a square multi-eaved brick tower rebuilt in the Jin. Luoyang Museum is a national first-class museum, strongest in Shang and Zhou bronzes, Han and Tang figurines and sancai glaze.

Tips: Both are free but need a booking, and the gate reads a physical ID card, not a digital copy. Guests generally find the museum quieter after three and the sancai gallery on the upper floor worth the time. In practice, the museum is placed in the afternoon so dinner follows without a rush.

East in the morning to Yanshi and the Erlitou museum, a long low building set against the excavated site, its galleries kept deliberately dim. A turquoise dragon lies in a case of its own, more than two thousand small plaques inlaid along its body, head turned outward, eyes round. Beside it a bronze jue with three slender legs, one of the earliest wine vessels cast in bronze. Lunch near the museum, then back into Luoyang to drop the group.

Attraction introduction: The Erlitou site near Yanshi dates to roughly 3,800 to 3,500 years ago and is accepted by most researchers as the late Xia capital. Excavation has revealed a palace enclosure, a road grid and bronze casting workshops, and produced the turquoise dragon inlaid from over two thousand pieces. The permanent galleries run from the First Dynasty through the Xia capital.

Tips: Case glass throws reflections, so look at detail from an angle rather than straight on. Guests generally find the route through the two floors easy to lose, and following a guide keeps the sequence. In practice, day three holds one museum only, which leaves time for the train.